Triple Curled parsley is a compact-looking herb with tightly crinkled leaves, but it needs the same patient start and generous root room as other parsley. The useful routine is simple: keep the seedbed moist, give seedlings time, and harvest whole outer stems while protecting the center.
Planting at a glance
- Botanical name
- Petroselinum crispum
- Life cycle
- Biennial, usually grown for first-year leaves
- Sowing depth
- ¼ inch
- Germination
- Often 14–28 days; sometimes longer
- Spacing
- 6–8 inches; allow more room for large plants
- Light
- Full sun to partial shade
Use local frost dates and growing conditions to adjust planting and harvest timing.
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What the variety name tells you
Triple Curled describes the ruffled leaf type. It is useful for chopped parsley, sauces and garnish, not just decoration. Flat leaf parsley has a different leaf shape; neither type should be confused with cilantro. Label seed trays carefully because very young herb seedlings can be hard to recognize.
Parsley normally spends its first growing season making leaves and a root system. After exposure to winter conditions, surviving plants commonly send up flower stalks in the following season. Plan a fresh sowing each year if tender kitchen leaves are your main goal.
Give germination a fair chance
Sow about a quarter inch deep in a clean tray of moist seed-starting mix. Starting indoors six to eight weeks before the expected planting date gives the slow seed a protected place to germinate. An optional overnight soak before sowing can help hydrate the seed; sow promptly afterward.
Set the tray in moderate warmth, keep the surface from drying into a crust, and record the date. Parsley can take two to four weeks or longer when conditions are cool. Avoid repeatedly digging up seeds to check them. A fine spray or gentle bottom watering keeps moisture more even than a heavy stream. Once leaves appear, remove any cover and provide bright light.
For tray setup and early seedling care, see our seed-starting guide for beginners.
Transplant without tangling the roots
Use individual cells or small pots so each seedling can develop a root ball you can lift intact. Thin extras with scissors rather than pulling them through neighboring roots. Grow seedlings in good light and introduce them gradually to outdoor conditions before transplanting.
Choose well-drained soil that holds moisture, with sun for much of the day. Afternoon shade can help during very hot weather. Place plants six to eight inches apart for regular kitchen cutting, with more room if you intend to grow large specimens. Plant at the original soil level, firm gently and water the root ball thoroughly.
Direct sowing and seasonal planning
You can sow outdoors when the ground can be prepared into a fine seedbed and your local spring planting conditions are suitable. Mark the row clearly so slow-emerging parsley is not accidentally hoed away. A second sowing is useful if the first stand is sparse, but keep the dates separate so you know which seedlings belong to each attempt.
In climates with mild winters, a late-season sowing can provide leaves through cooler months. In cold areas, start early enough for plants to establish before winter rather than expecting rapid growth in short autumn days. Local weather and day length are better guides than a single national planting date.
Keep the leaves tender
Water when the root zone begins to dry, soaking it rather than giving only a daily surface sprinkle. Mulch between established plants to reduce splashing and weeds, keeping mulch off the crown. Check dense curled foliage carefully after rain; trapped debris and prolonged wetness make inspection more difficult.
Use a soil test to guide fertilizer in beds. A container may need modest feeding because irrigation washes nutrients out, but use the product label and avoid stacking several fertilizers. If leaves pale, also check drainage and roots. More fertilizer will not repair a waterlogged pot.
Harvest whole stems from the outside
Wait until plants have enough healthy foliage to spare. Cut an outer leaf stem near its base rather than taking only the leafy top. Leave the young central growth intact and give the plant time to replace what you remove. Work around the clump instead of stripping one plant bare.
Rinse the folds thoroughly before cooking. Use fresh leaves promptly, refrigerate clean harvests appropriately, or freeze chopped portions for later meals. A few small scheduled cuttings are easier on a young plant than one large harvest. The mature-looking rosette matters more than an exact day count.
See our parsley regrowth guide for more detail on harvesting without damaging the center.
Containers, caterpillars and flowering
Choose a pot at least about 10–12 inches deep with drainage holes for the taproot. Use potting mix rather than compact garden soil. Check water often on a sunny patio and give indoor plants strong light. A dim kitchen corner will not produce enough new leaves for frequent cutting.
Black swallowtail caterpillars may feed on parsley. Identify them before acting; many gardeners leave an extra plant for them. On a plant that sends up a tall central flower stalk, do not expect pinching to recreate its first-year growth. Sow replacements and keep flowering plants only if you want insects or seed. Saving true-to-type seed also requires considering other flowering parsley nearby.
Growing questions
Can I use curly parsley for cooking?
Yes. Chop the leaves finely for sauces, soups and salads, or use them whole as a garnish.
Why has my parsley not sprouted after a week?
A week is often too soon. Keep the seedbed moist and allow at least the expected two to four weeks, with more time in cool conditions.
Will parsley grow back after cutting?
A healthy first-year plant can regrow when you cut outer stems and leave the central growing point and adequate foliage.
Ready for another planting? See Triple Curled Parsley Seeds for the current packet options.
Sources and photo credits
Prepared with AI assistance using Gardeners Basics product information and horticultural references. This guide does not describe a Gardeners Basics growing trial. Research and license links open in a new tab.
Growing references
Photo credits
Photographs illustrate the crop or growing stage. They are not photographs of a Gardeners Basics growing trial; a specific cultivar is identified only where the source documents it.
- Cover: Petroselinum crispum 002.JPG, H. Zell. CC BY-SA 3.0. Resized for display. The Pinterest graphic crops the cover photograph; its photo retains the stated license.
- Article photo 1: Petroselinum crispum 001.JPG, H. Zell. CC BY-SA 3.0. Resized for display. The Pinterest graphic crops the cover photograph; its photo retains the stated license.
